Not many restaurants inspire a Proustian-style flashback the moment you step into them. But Marylebone Village's Michelin-starred Trishna manages just that – the smell wafting from the kitchen immediately whisks me back to the plates of daal and spicy prawn curries I inhaled in beachfront shacks in Goa. Thankfully, the recently relaunched Trishna, zoning in on southwest Indian cuisine, easily eclipses anything bought on a paper plate, firstly because there's a dedicated sommelier to match world wines with the food. The starter plates of baby squid with mint and mango were beautifully presented, as was our delicate salmon tikka. Order the Kerala Jheenga signature king prawn curry and lamb curry at all costs, and book onto the next flight to Goa while you're at it.

15-17 Blandford Street, W1U 3DG; trishnalondon.com