What's the draw

With a name like Lobos Meat & Tapas, you know what you're in for at this new Borough joint – though both the meat and tapas (we didn't see any lobos – wolves) are of the superior kind. Book a seat on the top floor, where tables just about squeeze into the dimly lit under-arches space, for a proper neighbourhood garito vibe.

What to drink

There's a strong selection of (mostly Spanish) wines by the glass, carafe and bottle – from varieties you'll never have heard of to those you certainly have. The 2014 Jarrate Joven is a young, lively rioja with plenty of punch and character.

What to eat

Baked tetilla cheese from Galicia arrives flaming, bubbling and soaked in brandy, while you'll be begging for extra bread to mop up the garlicky remnants of prawns, mussel and squid. The chuletón to share – a beautifully charred bone-in ribeye from Ginger Pig, with a piquant chimichurri – is enough to make a grown carnivore weep (then ask for seconds).

14 Borough High Street, SE1 9QG; lobostapas.co.uk