What's the draw

Of the seven three-Michelin-starred restaurants in Spain, three are in the Basque Country. That's why, when we're in the midst of a Basque food invasion, you should be excited. One of the latest imports is Lurra, whose focus is firmly on food, but whose style shares more in common with the pintxos bars and grillhouses of San Sebastián.

What to drink

You're in wine territory, and the all-Spanish list has some standouts, in particular the superb Trossos del Priorat Lo Mon from, er, Priorat – a cab sauv and syrah blend that's velvety and fruit-forward, with a lingering liquorice finish.

What to eat

Plates here are for sharing, but that doesn't make them small. Start with crusty bread with grilled bone marrow before diving into a whole grilled octopus sat atop drizzles of fiery pepper sauce. If you order one thing, though, make it the old beef. There's something of a craze for this style of beef, prevalent in Galicia, which makes use of former dairy cows (some can be up to 14 years old) and then takes it further by dry-ageing until it develops a tangy, umami-laden, almost hard-cheese-esque taste. Order it with the excellent paprika fries with aioli and a salad of succulent tomatoes with olive oil to freshen the whole thing up.

Dinner and drinks for two, around £110. 9 Seymour Place, W1H 5BA; lurra.co.uk