It's already that time of year again, when the evenings start to draw in and it's getting a tiny bit nippy, when we don our hunting gear and brave the drizzle to find some game to shoot.

Well, we don't personally, but some people do, with the happy result that the menus at our favourite restaurants are full of rich, delicious meats that we rarely see of the rest of the year, cooked in all sorts of seasonal ways, whether it's in sashimi or baked in clay.

It's proper seasonal eating, and that's why we love it. Tuck in.