Photograph by Joanna Yee
"I came across these samosas in the bustling Hyderabadi colony in Karachi," explains Sumayya Usmani, author of the excellent Summers Under the Tamarind Tree, "An area filled with immigrants from Hyderabad in India who settled there at the time of partition in 1947." This piece of explanation is emblematic of Usmani's book, in which she aims to share the cultural histories of the dishes of her native Pakistan. As well as history, these samosas are also rich in flavour. "The special ingredient is pawa," she says, "A dried, flattened rice, which soaks up all the juices from the onions, leaving tiny, crisp, moreish parcels of flavour."