What is it that makes smoked salmon feel so luxurious? Could it be its deeply savoury, moreish flavour, or the way it falls neatly into paper-thin slices? Or is it that it usually costs a small fortune at the supermarket? We'll let you in on a secret: if you're feeling a bit cheffy, you can make it yourself easily enough. Here's a recipe for home-smoked salmon from Jun Tanaka, chef-patron of The Ninth, who pairs it with home-pickled vegetables. Enjoy.