Restaurant review: MASH, Soho
This week, we sit down for USDA and Uruguayan steak in one of London's most opulent subterranean restaurants, MASH
- By Mike Gibson -
What's the draw
What started as a single steakhouse in Copenhagen has become a European restaurant empire, with seven locations in Denmark and one in Hamburg. The London outpost brings a decadent dining experience to a huge room hidden underneath the streets of Soho. It's a balls-out interpretation of US steak and wine culture.
What to drink
Start at the four-sided bar that greets you as you walk into the sweeping room for a cocktail or two. The list, which recalls 1920s speakeasy culture, leans heavily on whisky. We had the Woody Woodpecker No. 2, a maple- and pecan-infused old fashioned built around Bulleit bourbon, and the Star Hill Negroni – a boulevardier-style serve made with Maker's Mark and special-edition Martini Gran Lusso vermouth alongside Campari.
What to eat
If our answer of "steak" makes us seem predictable, we don't care. Largely speaking, that's what you're here for, so sit down in one of MASH's loungey booths and get a selection to share. New on the menu on our visit was Uruguayan fillet steak, butter-smooth and gamey, and we tucked into a big hunk of USDA prime bone-in rib-eye, too. You're also at home with the sides – mac and cheese, caesar salad and fries join a host of other high-end version of US diner staples on the menu.
Starters from £8.50; steak from £18; wine from £25 by the bottle. 77 Brewer Street, W1F 9ZN; mashsteak.com