What's the draw

Mark Jarvis's Anglo is possibly best described as fine-dining restaurant created for people who don't necessarily love the trappings of fine dining. Outside, a tiny, neon-lit sign guides you into a room that's tiny enough to rely on just a couple of waiting staff and a few chefs (who themselves get involved with serving dishes), the tables are bare, and the price of the tasting menu – the only option during the restaurant's dinner service – is far from eye-watering at £45 per head.

What to drink

If you're happy with a bottle, you're in good hands with the well-sourced wine list. We'd heartily recommend the drinks pairing (at £30), which starts with wine (an aromatic Austrian blaufränkisch blend, served chilled, and an old-vine garnacha from Aragon were standouts) before moving onto a few eyebrow-raising beer and cider pairings – the rich coffee notes of Siren Craft Brew's breakfast stout were a perfect foil for our rich dark chocolate dessert.

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What to eat

You'll be presented with the day's menu on arrival, and note that it'll change pretty regularly according to seasons and availability of ingredients. We loved the umami-rich girolles and oak moss that was first up, as well as a delicious cod in dashi stock, served with celeriac and with a big hit of lavender. The 'main' was a knockout, too – red deer was served both pan-fried and as a smoked tartare, with fermented cabbage, juniper and an aubergine purée. Two thirds of the way in and you can try out one of Anglo's embryonic signature dishes, too: mature cheddar and caramelised onion slathered on malt loaf. Trust us – it works.

Tasting menu, £45; £75 with paired wines. 30 St Cross St, EC1N 8UH; anglorestaurant.com