Review: the Korean menu at Galvin at Windows, Mayfair
They may have held on to their Michelin star for the eighth year running, but the team at lofty Park Lane icon Galvin at Windows aren't playing it safe: for the month of October, they've gone Korean
By Jon Hawkins
Published: Thursday 6th October 2016
What's the draw
Since Joo Won took the helm at Galvin at Windows in 2013, eagle-eyed diners will have spotted the odd bit of Korean inspiration appearing on their plates. For October, though, he's taken things to the next level with a tasting menu that goes bigger than ever on Korean food – without leaving the restaurant's classical French fine dining behind altogether.
What to eat
Go for the Korean dégustation menu (you can still order the regular Galvin at Windows menus throughout the month) and you'll get a seven-course journey that blends Korean styles and ingredients with a French foundation. Seared foie gras with mushroom fricassé and toasted brioche comes with kimchi and tart redcurrants, while the star dish is smoky and impossibly tender Iberico pork bulgogi, given a red-hot jolt by barbecued chilli squid. It's clever and delicious.
What to drink
There's an optional wine pairing for the dégustation menu and if you've got the readies – which, if you've splashed out on the dégustation menu anyway, we're assuming you have – it's well worth the investment. Like the food, the pairings mix French and Korean (though not both at once), and the sommelier's clearly had fun coming up with them – a ginseng-infused baekseju rice wine is a perfect partner for raw orkney scallops with peanut and confit ginger, while a 2009 pinot noir from Hugel in Alsace makes that Iberico bulgogi sing even louder.
Menu Dégustation including wine, £169. 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE; galvinatwindows.com