Booma, Brixton: restaurant review
Indian food's reinvention continues at Booma, where you'll find modern takes on curried classics alongside a discerning range of craft beers and ciders
What's the draw
We've written extensively about Indian cuisine coming out of its comfort-food comfort zone, and Booma – set on an unassuming street between Brixton and Stockwell opposite the Crown & Anchor pub – uses a deft touch in the making of its smart Indian small plates, each one designed to pair with an extensive range of craft beers.
What to drink
You're here for beer – whether it's the range of white-labeled brews that start at £1.80 for a small glass (beers here are treated elegantly; if you're hankering for a post-work pint, we'd suggest popping across the road first), lagers from Germany or new-school beers from the around the world. We loved a malty, Belgian-style white beer with notes of banana from Camden Town and a crisp, champagne-method cider with our starter, made by UK wine and cider maker Hush Heath.
What to eat
You can order by the plate, or pay an incredibly modest £19.95 for a five-course sampling menu. On our visit, we enjoyed an almost toffee-sweet paneer, marinated simply and then grilled; salmon hot out of the tandoor, delicately spiced, with its crisp, salty skin intact; Pudhina lamb cutlets with a requisite deep char, served with zingy papaya and herb puréed chutney; and pork ribs with a deep, rich sauce that had a muscovado sweetness and a gentle, creeping piquancy.
Beers from £1.80, small plates from £4.50, sampling menu £19.95 per person. 244 Brixton Road, SW9 6AH; booma-brixton.co.uk