Restaurant review: Kricket, Soho
The Pop Brixton favourite gets its first bricks and mortar site in Soho, where we get our chops 'round new and old dishes alike
What's the draw
Handsome-looking modern Indian food has landed on Denman Street, Soho, after Kricket's raging success in a 20-seater shipping container in Brixton. This new site has taken the swank up a level with leather booths and counter dining (try and bag one of those for close-up chef-prepping action). The tunes are excellent – think The Human League and '80s synth.
What to drink
Spiced masala chais have been pimped with a generous splash of rum, but the no-booze version is just as lovely. Softies should try the fresh lime soda with mint, while cocktails-wise the Beyond the Pale – with vodka, coriander, tamarind and IPA – is the perfect counterpoint to the heat of the food. Elsewhere, the beers have been shipped in from South London, Staffordshire and Somerset, while the wine list is pretty varied, and well-priced, too.
What to eat
Small plates are the thing here, and you'll need seven or so for two if you're hungry – which has the added perk that you can take down a lot of the menu in one epic feast. Make sure it includes the bhel puri – a fresh, fruity and very pretty bowl of rice, tamarind and raw mango that became a signature dish at the Brixton site – and the keralan fried chicken, which is crispy, crunchy and moreish, and at its best when dipped in the luminous-yellow curry leaf mayo. The absolute winner, though, is the duck leg kathi roll: a tarted-up Indian street-food staple, served with peanut chutney and pickles. Save room for dessert (both of them). And another cocktail – it'd be a shame not to.
Small plates from £5; wines from £4.50 by the glass. 12 Denman Street, W1D 7HH; kricket.co.uk