Heddon Yokocho

What’s the draw

Ramen in London comes in many forms, and there are a few restaurant groups in the capital that have helped this Japanese pulled noodle soup in bone broth go from a fringe dish to a staple of the scene as the food of Japan gets better understood and explored. Who better, then, to launch an all-new type of ramen spot than the iconic retailer Japan Centre: bringing its extensive expertise in Japanese ingredients – in addition to years of experience running ramen restaurant group Shoryu – to the 1970s-inspired Ramen Yokocho, which has two sites in the capital. The Heddon Street venue is all about throwback Tokyo style – loungey deep red booths, paper lanterns, neon signage and the occasional Gojira (Godzilla)-themed pop-up. Yes, really.

What to drink

Many people will tell you that the best accompaniment to a bowl of warming ramen is an ice-cold bottle of Kirin Ichiban or Asahi Super Dry, and who are we to tell them they’re wrong? The list here extends quite a bit further, though, with plenty of cocktail action – from safe bets like Aperol Spritzes, G&Ts and highballs with Japanese whisky to those like the Momojito, where Japanese and white rums are mixed with lime, mint and a touch of peach. A comprehensive sake list is arguably the crowning glory, though, highlighting sake from top-name brewers including Gekeikkan and Kuheiji, from cloudy Nigori to a flowery, aromatic Gekeikkan Daiginjo, with flights available for those who want to explore a range across the spectrum. Outside of the alcohol, the headline act is a melon cream soda popular in Japan, topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

What to eat

Those who’ve eaten ramen across the capital for the last few years will no doubt be familiar with hakata tonkotsu ramen – hand-pulled noodles in a broth enriched by pork bones, usually served with slices of pork belly and other accoutrements – brought to the mainstream by Shoryu among others. You’ll find that here, but the Yokocho ramen is the star of the show: soy and chicken giving a lighter body to the broth while still providing an umami punch, while pork and a naruto fishcake jostle for position with nori seaweed, cabbage, fudgy boiled egg and other trimmings. Sides-wise, you’re in kara-age town – soy, garlic and ginger-marinated chicken thigh coated in flour, deep-fried until crispy and served with unctuous lime mayo – while there’s plenty else to snack on before your main, from steamed and fried gyoza to spicy wings, sushi and sashimi and more. Fill your boots.