Boxcar Butcher & Grill, Marylebone: restaurant review
We run the rule over Boxcar, a must-visit deli and grill in Marylebone that proves that, while eating trends may come and go, steak is here to stay
- By Jordan Kelly-Linden -
What's the draw
London's seen a boom in banging plant-based eateries, Boxcar, however, is not part of that party. Sure, there's a delicious-sounding vegetarian offering (we'd smash a portobello mushroom and black bean burger any day) but if you're here for anything, you're here for a big hunk of that ethically sourced, best-of-British meat. Posh pub-grub legend Barry Hirst's first solo venture is after all, a butcher and deli by day and homely Marylebone grill – with its industrial chic, rough wood and midnight-blue interior by... well, day too, but also night.
What to drink
Waste no time in getting stuck into Boxcar's creative cocktails. The Butcher is a great way to set the scene. Warming, with burnt orange tones, and served in a handsome tumbler, it’s topped with a flame-kissed citrus slice and sees bacon-infused bourbon (What did we just say, ey?), mezcal, barbecue bitters and maple syrup meet over ice in a sweet and smoky lip-puckering mix. Elsewhere, you'll find some excellent worldly wines, conveniently available by the glass. A splash of ruby-coloured 2016 Guarda Rios – a red blend from the Monte da Ravasqueira estate in Portugal's Alentejo region – wouldn't go amiss next to the 45-day dry-aged rare breed Boxcar burger, if we don't say so ourselves.
What to eat
Steak, obviously. A choice of cuts, as well as Boxcar's daily specials, are chalked up on the wall, but you can't knock a good old slice of sirloin – especially when it's 28 day-aged and done up from a well-tended-to North Yorkshire Galloway. Add some peppercorn sauce (a classic for a reason, in our opinion) and take down a handful of triple-cooked chips while you're at it as well. A plate of Tenderstem broccoli, gently sautéed with chilli and garlic, wouldn't go amiss, but don't feel like you need to go green – Boxcar's beef is so juicy and flavoursome, it speaks for itself. Plus, if you were sensible, you would have dived into the Dinton Farm scotch egg – with its bright orange jewel of a yolk and tangy apple sauce – and the crisp yorkshire pud with liver parfait when you kicked off proceedings, leaving little room for distractions, never mind dessert.
Mains from £10, wines from £5 by the glass. 23 New Quebec St, W1H 7SD; boxcar.co.uk