Little Quiet, Barbican: restaurant review
Little Quiet, Disappearing Dining Club's latest residency, brings Alpine winter warmers and molten popcorn brownies to a clandestine former wine bar on Newbury Street
- By Jordan Kelly-Linden -
What's the draw?
When you know, you know – or at least, that seems to be the idea behind Little Quiet, a shady and secluded 18-month-long pop-up on Newbury Street from under-the-radar supper club experts Disappearing Dining Club.
What to drink?
The wine list changes week to week, and it's as short, considered and as understated as the restaurant's tiny 16-seater dining room. Our suggestion? Relinquish control and let the waiters hook you up with a couple of well-informed – and delicious – wine pairings. We took down the first half of our meal with a glass of a crisp and floral 2015 Picpoul de Pinet from French grower Grange des Rocs, before approaching the second half with a bottle from Marlborough winemaker Framingham – rich and full-bodied for a pinot noir, and brimming with chocolate and raisin notes that we might have to stock up on a cupboard-full of Cadbury's Fruit and Nut just to take our minds off it.
What to eat?
If you're here for anything, you're here for the tasting menu. You're going to want to go for the three courses – and we say the three course over the round of six, because as soon as you experience the warm, alpine hug that is head chef Fred Bolin's umami-rich celeriac soup with brown almond butter, you're going to wish you'd signed up to a full-sized offering (or, more to the point, a whole bath-load of the stuff). Bolin's pan-fried sea bream with the crispiest of skins, bites of chorizo and melty, baked fennel, and the braised ox cheeks in port jus with indulgent and satisfying cauliflower cheese croquettes are also high on our list of winter warmer insider tips. But the true take-home of a meal here is the molten chocolate brownie with salted caramel and popcorn parfait – which as our dinner companion muttered into her bowl of the stuff – will make you want to cry, it's that good.
Three-course tasting menu from £30, wines from £5.50 by the glass; 24-26 Newbury Street, EC1A 7HU. disappearingdiningclub.co.uk/little-quiet