Restaurant review: Nutbourne, Battersea
We find farm food prepared with a deft touch at the Gladwin brothers' new restaurant Nutbourne, named after their family farm and vineyard
- By Mike Gibson -
What's the draw
You can't say the Gladwins don't keep themselves busy. Brothers Richard, Oliver and Gregory – whose farm in Sussex services their two existing 'wild food' restaurants, Rabbit and The Shed, and is also home to Nutbourne Vineyard – recently opened their eponymous third restaurant in Battersea, a true farm-to-table British brasserie.View on Instagram
What to drink
Being winemakers as well as restaurateurs means there's due attention paid to the massive – but not overwhelming – wine list, with a lot available by the glass. As you'd expect, all of Nutbourne's releases are here – we tried a couple of whites before deciding on the peachy, well-rounded Sussex Reserve. Journey's End, a classically punchy blend from Stellenbosch (shiraz and mourvèdre topped up with a little viognier, if you're wondering) was deliciously peppery, with enough bite to keep up with both steak and venison.
What to eat
The restaurant is as seasonal as they come, which means you'll likely see a totally different menu than the one we chose from. But we loved duck hearts and ox tongue with buttery, nutty romanesco; purple carrots (always a showstopper at a farm-to-table place, in our experience) that were bursting with sweetness and complexity; and hunks of rare hangar steak served simply with greens and whipped butter. The weekday lunch is fantastic value, with three courses for £19.50, too.
Wine from £5 by the glass; mains from £14.50; three courses (lunch) for £19.50. 29 Ransomes Dock, 35-37 Parkgate Road, SW11 4NP; nutbourne-restaurant.com