Rigo, Parson's Green: Restaurant Review
Rigo, with its tasting menus, wine pairings and progressive flavour combinations, brings modern cooking with serious flair and a dizzying aesthetic to a neighbourhood spot in Parsons Green
- By Mike Gibson -
What's the draw:
Gonzalo Luzarraga's Rigo is testament to the fact that contemporary haute cuisine can be found well outside of the centre of London. The restaurant has divided critics since it opened, with textural plays, artful platings and ultra-modern versions of classic Piedmontese dishes meaning Rigo makes sure its presence is felt on an otherwise quiet West London high street.
What to drink:
We'd advise leaving yourself in the hands of the sommelier – if you're feeling celebratory, get the whole wine pairing; but being as we went on a school night, we asked for three paired glasses to last the tasting menu. The Clinet Blanche 2015 by Bordeaux winemaker Ronan was a flinty sauvignon/semillon blend full of hay and asparagus character, and Cantine del Notaio's L'Atto, a rich, punchy aglianico, was a great foil for our pluma of rare-breed Cinta Senese pig, a dark cut served rare, not unlike presa Ibérica.
What to eat:
Having worked under Alain Ducasse, among other Michelin-starred luminaries, Luzarraga is a chef whose food nails the fine-dining tag to the mast from the off, and dishes here oscillate between simple and effective (sourdough with anchovy butter, and Ligurian-style French olive oil on the site) and more cheffy (dehydrated tripe with salmon roe and that mortadella ice cream cone – which, for the record, we thought was delicious). In classic Piedmont style, anchovies crop up a few times on the menu, from the butter to a dish of cultured milk and quail's egg with bagna cauda, and again in our favourite dish: which resembled cacio e pepe, but was in fact spaghetti made with a heritage wheat variety that dated back to Roman times, with processed anchovy and bread yeast – rich, saline and full of umami character.
Set lunch menu from £22; dinner menu from £43; wine from £5.50 by the glass. 277 New King's Road, SW6 4RD; rigolondon.com